Peter Finlayson comes from a South African winemaking dynasty and was himself the winemaker at stellar estate Hamilton Russell, where he helped to build their reputation for making some of the Cape’s finest Chardonnay (which is also one of the New Worlds finest) and the standout Pinot Noir.

Peter branched out on his own in 1989, initially working with Paul Bouchard of the Beaune house Bouchard Pere et Fils (which given Peter’s outstanding work with Burgundian varieties makes perfect sense), however the estate is now owned by the Tollman family who give Peter the freedom that few winemakers can enjoy and enables him to concentrate on crafting premium wines made in relatively small volumes.

Situated next door to Hamilton Russell, the estate is cooled by its close proximity to the ocean, in Hemel en Arde and today enjoys a reputation close to that of Hamilton Russell for the exquisite nature of its wines and particularly the flagship Galpin Peak Pinot Noir.

It should be noted that the tasting notes were compiled at the end of a long day of tasting.

Blanc de Mer 2010
A blend of 40% Riesling, 33% Viognier, 13% Sauvignon Blanc, 11% Chenin Blanc, 3% Chardonnay.
Bright fresh and aromatic, with really good length. Lovely pear and ripe melon flavours and some tropical notes. Ever so drinkable and always popular at tastings.

Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Fresh, bright and with great texture. Aromatic, crisp and fresh. Delightful.

Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2010
12% Semillon is added whilst there is a small degree of French oak used.
Pure stylish and fresh, lovely weight and mouthfeel, good minerality and typical Sauvignon aromas.

Galpin Peak 2009
Lovely broad fruited, grippy texture and not too austere or tight. Lots of lovely warm, sweet spice, and red berry fruits. Juicy.

Hannibal 2008
50% Sangiovese, 22% Pinot Noir, 13% Nebbiolo, 7% Mourvedre, 6% Barbera, 2% Shiraz.
Really grippy tannins, lovely mouthfeel. Terrific acidity and freshness. Lovely uplifted aromas of fresh red fruits.

Sans Barrique Chardonnay 2010
Mouthfeel is terrific, lovely layers of minerality and ripe fruit flavours.

Croccodiles Lair / Kaaimansgat Chardonnay 2009
8 months in French Oak
Lovely texture, terrific fruit and oak interaction – really well done and so polished too. Vastly long with real concentration and intensity but subtle too and complex. Love it.

Kaamansgat Limited Edition 2009
Barrel fermented (60%) blended with 40% unwooded, non malo wine.
Tight and closed at present – clearly has class but needs a year to open up a bit. I think I prefer the previous wine for drinking tonight but this to drink next year. Slightly more subtle oak influence, and lovely striking freshness.

Missionvale Chardonnay 2009
7 months in 30% new French oak.
Very fine indeed. Rich and exotic, tight and sensuous – this is Meursault to the previous wines Puligny and is utterly delicious. We’re tasting this at the variety show – and are so pleased to be doing so – put it on your to do list!

Despite appearances to the contrary he isn’t all about rebellion, and is a thoughtful winemaker, whose self deprecating nature would tell you that his wines aren’t ‘that’ good, his winery and vineyards are a complete shambles and he just sort of throws whatever he finds around and hopes it kind of works. The reality is probably a long way from that, this is a man who was the winemaker at Rustenberg, on of the Cape’s most traditional and highly regarded wine estates and who consults to Glenelly, the relative newcomer to traditional Stellenbosch owned by May Elaine de Lencquesaing whose moved to South Africa having sold Chateau Pichon Lalande in Bordeaux. Pick it, crush and hope for the best isn’t Adi’s style – whatever he says.

What is true is that Adi loves blending, at Rustenberg it was crafting John X Merriman (a blend retailing around £11) that made his heart beat rather than the flagship Peter Barlow (100% single vineyard Cabernet that Adi said pretty much made itself), so it is perhaps no surprise to see 10 varieties on his flagship white blend. Ask Adi about it and if you get the sensible answer he’ll talk you through each variety telling you what it brings to the wine, why it’s included and how it is fermented (on it’s own or co-fermented with other wines), if he’s in ‘normal’ mode he’ll tell you it’s a blend like that because those are the grapes he’s got to work with.

When Adi moved to the family farm to start making wines under his own name, the winery was a mess, and the vineyards can look a mess compared to the manicured, tourist friendly vineyards of Stellenbosch, but this is Swartland – the vines are old and rather than being nicely wire trained they are bush vines whilst other plants and grasses are not only allowed but encouraged to aid with biodiversity. The whole place has a somewhat rustic look about it, and Adi’s office looks like something from a 1930’s colonial film but the wines themselves are outstanding. They may lack the polish of the best wines of Stellenbosch – but then why try and make the same thing that they are doing – but in some ways they are all the better for it, making wines that are really interesting, exiciting – thrilling even.

Secateurs Chenin 2011
Clean, pure fruited and fresh. Subtle rather than in your face and a little bit racy.

Family White Blend 2009
Chenin Blanc (29%), Roussanne (23%), Grenache Blanc (10%), Viognier (11%), Verdehlo (2%), Chardonnay (11%), Colombard (5%), Grenache Gris (5%), Semillon (2%), Clairette Blanche (2%).
Rich, fruit focussed, pure and complex. Concentrated with layers of fruit and mineral characters some lovely freshness – somehow managers to be lean and full at the same time. Lovely texture. Very food friendly

Secateurs Red Blend 2010
Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Grenache, Cinsault, Carignan
Quite savoury with juicy red fruits. Good concentration with peppery, spicy fruit and a supple texture

A A Badenhorst Family Red Blend 2007
Ripe berry fruits, good acidity, lovely balance and focus. Linear structure gives some terrific length and a grippy texture.

The De Rust Estate, where Paul Cluver wines is based, has been in the Cluver family’s hands since 1896 and today is very much a family business. Paul Sr. has handed over the day to day running of the company to Paul Jr. Paul’s sisters Liesl (marketing director), Inge (financial manager), and Karin (production manager) are all involved and live on the farm, whilst winemaker Andries Burger is married to Inge.

As well as grapes the estate grows apples and pears, have a Hereford stud, run eco-tourism activites and have been internationally recognised for their ‘green’ credentials whilst half the estate has been set aside for conservation and forms part of a UNESCO world heritage site.

Paul Cluver was also the initiator and founder of Thandi, South Africa’s first black economic empowerment wine brand, and the world first Fairtrade wine brand.

Aside from all that the cool climate wines here are outstanding – it’s a huge pleasure to do business with a winery who not only make fantastic wines but do so in an environmentally sensitive way and who are working overall for the greater good.

As you might expect, white wine varieties predominate here, and it is Riesling that really makes the estate stand out, making perhaps South Africa’s best examples of Riesling in dry, off dry and sweet styles. It would be a mistake to overlook the other wines made here however, the Sauvignon Blanc is brilliant value and the Burgundian pair of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir offer a great deal of value for some pretty impressive wines.

Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Contains 8% Semillon to give a little mouthfeel. Fresh greengage, mineral and a light touch of herbaceousness. Quite expressive, zesty citrus fruits, restrained and elegant and lovely mouthfeel.

Dry Riesling 2010
Steely, lime scented fruit with lots of freshness. Crunchy fruit with good length, intensity and balanced acidity. Poised, tight, and tense.

Close Encounter Riesling 2010
Just 9.5 alcohol. Off dry with lovely floral and lime notes with concentrated fruit and some mineral undertones. Terrific length and purity of fruit. Linear, focussed and deep. Just a little bit too easy to drink.

Chardonnay 2009
Long, slow, cool ferment for added complexity and mouthfeel.
Toasty, matchstick aromas and baked lemon citrus notes, with masses of concentration and complexity. Poised and long this is outstanding.

Pinot Noir 2009
Savoury and truffle notes, with perfumed floral aromas. Tight and fresh with good length.

Seven Flags Pinot Noir 2008
Lots of mushroom and forest floor, intense but really tight at the moment, this needs time to open up and reveal it’s soft underside.

Klein Constantia is part of the oldest wine estate in South Africa, having been part of the original Constantia Estate that is now split with the largest portion now Groot Constantia (Groot means Great) and a smaller portion is Klein (which means little).

Situated close to Cape Town on the Cape Peninsular the big influence on climate here is the Atlantic Ocean (and to a lesser extent the Indian Ocean) which gives Constantia a cool, maritime climate ideally suited to the production of fresh European influenced wines.

Perhaps most famous for their sweet wine, Vin de Constance, which is a sweet Muscat made from late harvested grapes. This is a historic style of wine that was reported as being a particular favourite of Napoleon.

However limiting Klein to it’s sweet wines is to do it a real disservice as they make high quality wines in a number of styles, not least a fantastic Cap Classique (traditional method sparkling wine) made from 100% Chardonnay, fragrant pure and focussed Sauvignon Blanc and heavily Bordeaux influenced red blends with character and style.

The wines offered for tasting at our Variety Show will be, Cap Classique, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Marlbrook Blend (their flagship Bordeaux blend) and Vin de Constance.

The variety show takes place on 17th May from 7pm and costs just £5 per person.

Klein Constantia KC Cabernet Merlot 2008
Lovely mulberry fruit, chocolate and some earthy mineral notes. Velvety tannins and showing restraint and freshness.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Lovely freshness and austere but with bright fresh fruit. Mineral with some menthol and again showing restraint. Ripe and chalky tannins with a good long finish.

Marlbrook 2008
A blend of all five Bordeaux varieties, this is really concentrated with lovely peppery spice rich and tight at the same time with a lovely open fruit structure. Tannins are very fine indeed. A very lovely wine.

Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Lovely fresh citrus and passionfruit with some sort of sherbet flavour. Lovely mouthfeel too, slightly viscous and oily filling the mouth. Intense and complex – a pretty complete wine showing lovely restraint and tightness.

Mme Marlbrook 2008
A blend of Sauvignon, Semillon and Chardonnay which is then barrel fermented this has lovely aromatics and real richness. Textural with lovely mouthfeel. This is a very very smart bottle of white wine indeed.

Vin de Constance 2006
Textural, oily, complex and intensely flavoured. Fabulously rich with aromatics and grapey raisin flavours. Sensational.

But at wines from around the world arrived in the uk, as quality increased and our tastes headed towards a fuller bodied wine so Beaujolais fell from grace. These days Nouveau is nothing more than a curiosity in the UK – the great merry go round that Oddbins used to run around the release attracts few customers. And that is exactly why you should consider Beaujolais again.

Largely speaking you can split Beajolais into three sectors, Beaujolais AOC in the south with clay rich soils, Beaujolais Villages further north and to the west, on a mixture of granitic and clay soil and the ‘Crus’ of Beaujolais to the north east on granite soils.

It is these latter two areas where Beaujolais can become really rather interesting – and because they are not the most fashionable regions in the world (although there has recently been something of a resurgence which looks set to continue) the prices are pretty incredible too.

Where Beaujolais Villages gives you soft, accessible, juicy red fruits at a bargain price (£7.49 until 8th May) the Crus can give you so much more. Fleurie with it’s reputation as the lightest Cru has fragrance and perfume, Brouilly has a minerality to it, Chiroubles has the highest vineyards which are reflected in the notes of iris and violet supporting the fresh fruit. Morgon and Julienas have greater depth whilst Moulin a Vent is the wine that offers the greatest opportunity to mature.

These are food friendly wines, several of which will repay a period of cellaring and yet during out promotion we can offer most of them to you for less than £10 a bottle.

Our promotion runs from 1st – 8th May and we invite you to come instore and taste the delights that Beaujolais has to offer for yourself. Throughout that period we’ll have bottles open for you to try, whilst on Friday 4th you can come along to our shop on Banbury High Street from 6pm – 8.30pm and taste through our entire range and discover the wines for yourself. This really is an opportunity worth taking.

First to be announced is Paul Cluver Jr.

Paul Cluver wines are the foremost winery in the cool climate region Elgin, specialising in Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. As well as having incredibly high environmental ethics, the winery is also at the forefront of ethical trading having been responsible in part for setting up the Thandi initiative. It is family owned and run, with Paul Cluver Jr taking over the everyday running of the business from his father, whilst his sister Lisl is marketing director, Inge is financial director and Karin is involved in the fruit growing side of the business. The winemaker is Andries Burger who is married to Inge.

Wines produced include :-

Seven Flags Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir
Sauvignon Blanc
Riesling
Chardonnay
Gewurztraminer
Noble Late Harvest Riesling

As their website says

his family-owned, family-run wine business is located in the cool-climate Elgin Valley, approximately 70km south-east of Cape Town. The property has been in ownership of the Cluver Family since 1896. Recognised as pioneers of wine in the area, the focus is on producing elegant wines that are expressive of the terroir.

The wine business forms part of larger holistic farming business called ‘De Rust Estate’. In addition to the vineyards and cellar, there are apple and pear orchards, a Hereford stud and eco-tourism activities, including amphitheatre concerts, on the farm. This 2000+ hectare estate forms part of the UNESCO world heritage site, the Kogelberg Biosphere. Half of the estate has been set aside for conservation into perpetuity.

Rated 7th on the Grape Top 20 Wineries Poll of 2010
Founder member of the Green Mountain Eco-route – the World’s first wine & biodiversity route.
Initiator & mentor of Thandi Wines – SA’s first black economic empowerment wine brand and World’s first Fairtrade wine brand.
BWI Champion status since 2009
Drinks Business Green Awards 2010 – Lifetime Achievement Award went to Dr. Paul Cluver
Drinks Business Green Awards 2010 – Ethical Company Award – Joint runner-up.

Highland Park 18 Year Old £54.99 SAVE £15.00

Longrow 14 Year Old £39.99 SAVE £13.00

Laphroaig Quarter Cask £27.99 SAVE £5.00

Oban Distillers Edition £49.99 SAVE £10.00

Isle of Jura 16 Year Old £39.99 SAVE £8.00

Glenfiddich Distillers Edition £36.99 SAVE £8.00

Edradour 10 Year Old £32.99 SAVE £5.00

Balvenie Single Barrel 15 Year Old £42.99 SAVE £7.00

Macallan 12 Year Old £30.99 SAVE £9.00

Glenfarclas 30 Year Old £120.00 SAVE £25.00

Ardbeg Uigeadail £46.99 SAVE £10.00

Highland Park 25 Year Old £125.00 SAVE £30.00

Ardbeg Corryvreckan £55.99 SAVE £14.00

An Cnoc 12 Year Old £24.99 SAVE £7.00

Laphroaig 18 Year Old £69.99 SAVE £10.00

Old Pulteney 17 Year Old £43.99 SAVE £10.00

Laphroaig 25 Year Old £220.00 SAVE £45.00

Matthew Jukes 100 Best Wines

Matthew will lead us through a selection of 15 wines from his 100 Best list, in addition a number of wineries have shown themselves to be worthy of recognition for producing wines that consistently appear in his list. These are the ‘Hall of Fame’ wines, and a selection of wines from these producers will also be on hand to taste during the evening

2010 Vasse Felix Sauvignon Blanc Semillon
2010 Tower Estate Semillon
2010 Pewsey Vale Riesling
2010 Ocean Eight Verve Chardonnay
2011 Turkey Flat Rosé
2009 Devil’s Corner Pinot Noir
2008 Paringa Estate Pinot Noir
2008 Hollick Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot
2008 Wakefield Promised Land Shiraz Cabernet
2009 Bremerton Tamblyn
2006 Jim Barry PB Shiraz Cabernet
2009 Turkey Flat Butchers Block Red
2007 Paringa Estate Peninsula Shiraz
2009 Brown Brothers Orange Muscat & Flora
NV Campbells Classic Topaque – Muscadelle

Hall of Fame Tasting Table

2005 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon
2003 Tyrrell’s Winemaker’s Selection Vat 1 Semillon
2010 Yalumba Y Series Viognier
2010 Fox Gordon Princess Fiano
2008 Leeuwin Prelude Chardonnay
2010 De Bortoli Pinot Noir
2009 Moss Wood Amy’s Blend

Miopasso Fiano Sicily 2010 (£8.99/currently £7.49 as part of the Italian promotion)
Proof (if proof were needed) that there’s more to Italian white than Pinot Grigio. Citric and crisp up-front, rounding out to quite a full fruit, with a slightly honeyed, aromatic edge. This is light enough to work as a really characterful starter wine, but would also stand up to fresh fish dishes or soft cheese.

Terraprima Blanco Penedes 2010 (£10.99)
From cool vineyards high up in the Massis del Garraf, this is a thoroughly eccentric mix of Xarel-lo (a grape more commonly found in Cava, of which this part of Spain produces the lion’s share) and Riesling. Dry and elegant, with a light touch but a positive, lingering grapefruit and pear flavour with hints of fresh herbs and wood-smoke. Ideal with smoked salmon, creamy sauces, or delicately spiced dishes.

Yalumba Viognier Eden Valley 2009 (£13.99)
A bit of self-indulgence, as this is a real favourite of mine, and the perfect foil to those who think Aussie white is all syrupy, heavily oaked Chardonnay. This wine, from the cool, misty climate of the Eden Valley, is rounded and mouth-filling, but still beautifully balanced and fresh, showing delicate apricot and mandarin fruit and a lovely, mineral acidity. Very versatile white meat/fish wine, but also try it with dry, crumbly cheese or with bacon, gammon or duck.

Riveyrac Rouge Cotes du Roussillon 2010 (£6.99)
From the growers’ co-operative at Rivesaltes, this is a typical French-Mediterranean mix of grapes (Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan and Grenache) but unusually it undergoes maceration carbonique fermentation, like a Beaujolais. The result is a light-medium weight red with no perceivable tannin, but a deep purple colour and vibrant fresh-picked forest fruit flavours. Light enough to serve chilled in hot weather, but with winter coming, try this with grilled meats or seriously hot curry!

At this point there was a break for our tasters to enjoy the Red Cow’s cheese selection, complete with Steve’s homemade chutney and chilli relish. If you haven’t eaten at the Red Cow, it’s well worth a go. Suitably fortified, we went on to the second half…

Herdade Sao Miguel Ciconia Alentejo 2010 (£7.99)
A fantastic example of modern Portuguese winemaking, Ciconia is a mix of the native Touriga Nacional and Aragonez varieties, with some Syrah sandwiched in the middle. The flavour is as bold as the bright orange label, with soft, ripe tannins, bags of dark fruit, spicy aromatics, and a nice rustic, slightly rough around the edges quality that matches perfectly with casseroles and hearty meat dishes. In fact I can personally recommend it both with and in sausage stew!

Spice Route Chakalaka Swartland 2009 (£10.99)
The wonderfully named Chakalaka (a Zulu word for a traditional blend of spices) is a mix of six varieties, predominantly Syrah, Mourvedre and Carignan. If you happen to be at a South African Braai (barbecue – typically a bifurcated oil-drum full of coals with half an antelope on it) this is absolutely perfect! Hugely juicy and ripe, with solid but soft tannins and plenty of peppery, spicy tones. If you fancy something other than flame-grilled springbok, try Chakalala with dark chocolate.

Massaya Classic Red Bekaa Valley 2008 (£11.99)
Lebanon is one of the oldest winemaking areas on the planet, and this estate, set up by brothers Sami and Ramzi Ghosn in partnership with Dominique Hebrard of Chateau Trianon and the Bruniers of Vieux Telegraphe, is a leading light of the Bekaa Valley. This Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah mix is intense, very dry, and packed with bramble fruit flavours. Perfect with Middle-Eastern or North African cuisine such as kofta or tagine, but also great with game or simple roast lamb.

Vina von Siebenthal Carmenere Aconcagua Valley 2009 (£15.99)
Set up by expatriate Swiss lawyer and wine enthusiast Mauro von Siebenthal in 1998, this vineyard at Panquehue in Chile’s Aconcagua valley is already producing superb wines. This example, from Bordeaux’s now largely lost Carmenere grape, has both intensity and elegance, with masses of cassis fruit, hints of cedar-wood and tobacco, but held in a restrained package of fine-grained tannins. Need something to go with Christmas dinner? Keep this one in mind.

That concluded a great evening at the Red Cow, and one which we hope to repeat in the not too distant future. If you’re interested in organising a wine tasting event with S H Jones, please contact your local branch to discuss details.

* With apologies to the late great Douglas Adams for the misquote